Surf at Jæren, Norway: The Slab

I don’t have a deathwish, someone said.

I had asked about the big one. I don’t see it working often. But this day it was on.

He was happy with his life, he continued.

We laughed.

Huge amounts of water bouldering towards a lonely rock out there in the ocean. It was indeed looking both frightening and fascinating.

Many have been there, they say. But not often, it’s added.

One day, I thought.

Perhaps.

The wave

 

Denne lysbildefremvisningen krever JavaScript.

 

Denne lysbildefremvisningen krever JavaScript.

 

Denne lysbildefremvisningen krever JavaScript.

 

 

Denne lysbildefremvisningen krever JavaScript.

 

Denne lysbildefremvisningen krever JavaScript.

 

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